Bonham: Over the river and through the woods
By Lynne Weinberger
Oct 27, 2008
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Okay, so it wasn’t exactly ‘over the river’ – that would have been another ten miles or so.

Nor did we have to skim over the snow in a sleigh on our way through the woods; an easy drive straight up 121 took us to our destination. 

 

We weren’t going to Grandmother’s house, either, but the recent day trip we took to Bonham held all the excitement and anticipation that the old Christmas song evokes.

 

A bustling commercial and agricultural center in years past, Bonham is Fannin’s county seat.  Named in honor of James Butler Bonham, who died at the Alamo, this quaint and historic town with a lovely, well-preserved square is famous as the home of “Mr. Sam” Rayburn, former national Democratic party leader and Speaker of the House.

 

Bonham’s settlement began when Bailey Inglish arrived from Kentucky in 1836. A year later, he built Fort Inglish, a blockhouse and stockade, a replica of which still stands just outside town. Rather than historical fact-gathering, though, my friend Toni and I were there to check out the historic artifacts found in antique shops and to see what other surprises this Texas hamlet had in store for us.

 

 

We didn’t have to wait long – almost immediately we stumbled across something I never in my lifetime thought I would see: an honest-to-goodness working saddle shop. Twister Saddles on Sam Rayburn Drive creates fine custom and trophy saddles.  

 

A talented artisan turns out another beautiful saddle at Twister Saddles

 

No computerized machinery, no laser-driven etching: all designing, cutting, tooling, detail painting and finishing is done by hand, on site 

 

Elton Cain

This eye-opening combination of raw leather and fine art is run by proprietor Elton Cain, whose son Twister is an award-winning PRCA heeler (or for rodeo laymen like me, a prizewinning team roper who successfully cinches the back feet of a steer).

 

Nathan

 

Shop manager Nathan was Southern-gentleman-polite, welcoming and informative. He estimated that the shop produces a whopping 1000 saddles per year, no small feat when all the laborious and artistic steps that go into the making of each are considered. A handful of expert craftsmen and women were busy maneuvering between tall stacks of saddles in all stages of finish. Some were cutting the curved shapes, others were focused on a dizzying array of designs, and one concentrated with a tiny artist’s liner brush, giving the hand-tooled leather its added dimension by deftly painting the recessed areas black.

 

 

We saw saddles made for roping champions and rodeo queens, steer wrestlers and even cowboy churches. Fine skins like alligator and stingray (stingray!), in glorious hues from caramel brown to bright turquoise, graced these works of hand-tooled heaven. These are saddles for the horses and riders who have everything. Twister Saddles ships all around Texas and the US and is known as one of the country’s finest saddle makers.  Imagine being able to see these amazing works in progress!

 

A little further down Sam Rayburn Drive was a shop dear to my heart: Yards of Fun (Fabrics, Quilts and Gifts). 

 

 

Miss Dorothy, the owner’s mother, was there to gently guide us through rows of colorful fabrics and specialty Texas-themed yardage. I couldn’t possibly decide which was my favorite: the large crazy quilt done up in a Gone-To-Texas array of Lone Star fabrics bursting with bluebonnets, broncos, conchos and fringe; the life-sized fabric cowboy boots in the window (too cute!); or the quilt shop window itself, advertising fabric, classes and gossip.  Bless their hearts, they’re honest, too.

 

Next we met up with history expert and area guide Allen Rich of North Texas e-News. A native son, he has been enjoying our next stop all his life. I couldn’t have imagined what we’d find, and it was such a classic it could have been a cliché. In front of us in the lunch line was a group of dove hunters in full camouflage regalia, waiting patiently but carnivorously in line for their midday protein fix at The Hickory Bar-B-Q on (you guessed it) Sam Rayburn Drive.  The only other time I’ve ever seen so much camo in one room was at an Army-Navy store.

 

Dove hunters lining up at Hickory BBQ

 

We knew we were in the right place, though: the rustic family-owned cafeteria-style eatery was crowded and busy and, best of all, smelled like a fragrant campfire. Mouth-watering smoked meats, sausages that pop, and all kinds of country fixins filled us up as we tried to make room for the still-warm peach cobbler.

 

Needing to walk off our hearty lunch, little did we know the best was yet to come. The Creative Arts Center (CAC), a short two blocks off the square in a lovely residential area, is a former home donated by local philanthropists who stipulated that it be used as an arts venue.

 

Creative Arts Center

 

The CAC boasts (but never brags…it is too genteel for that) spacious galleries, meeting rooms, and a large, bright art classroom. The back garden was the icing: complete with lighted sound stage and melodic fountain, it will be the site of artists’ receptions and garden parties when complete in 2009.  Assistant Judy Hall enthusiastically guided us through the CAC and invited us back to view upcoming collections and make art.

If McKinney has a favorite country cousin, it's Bonham. With all we enjoyed there, from open land, horses and saddles, history, art, antiques, comfy quilts, home-cooked food and fun company, accepting a friendly invitation to come back will be like going on a treasured trip to Grandma's house.  

Twister Saddles, 113 W. Sam Rayburn Dr., Bonham, TX 75418         903.583.7973

Yards of Fun, 202 E. Sam Rayburn Dr., Bonham, TX  75418              903.583.8342

The Hickory Bar-B-Q, 208 E. Sam Rayburn Dr., Bonham, TX  75418  903.583.3081

Creative Arts Center, 200 W. Fifth St., Bonham, TX  75418               903.640.2196

North Texas e-News, www.ntxe-news.com

Bonham Area Chamber of Commerce, 327 N. Main, Bonham, TX 75418 903.583.4811     www.bonhamchamber.com   


First Presbyterian Church, Bonham

Carleton House B&B

Carleton House B&B

North side of the Bonham Square




Wise Funeral Home