Rolling down the river...226 miles along the mighty Colorado! part 14
By Faye Wedell, with photos by Paul Porter, Rudi Berkelhamer and Bonnie Feather
Jun 27, 2019
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(14th in the series)

 

DAY 9

Sunday, September 23, 2018

 

Another rich day, as the sun rose with a rosy glow and with shimmering glimmers on the water!  Off to a new start at mile 183!  It wouldn’t be long till we caught sight of a magnificent wonder—a peregrine falcon zooming downward like a bullet until it caught its prey and then off to the cliffs. 

 

We had now reached geologically speaking, the Tepeats Sandstone over Schist.  This itself was a piece of artwork here, like a mural before us.  At about mile 188, we docked the rafts and took a hike up a narrow path to view some Zuni pictographs, painted on the sandstone walls over 1000 years ago. Many tribes were consulted about this pictograph’s essence, but finally the Zuni Nation identified it one of their pictographs , depicting a scene of “The Great Migration” of the tribe from the 3rd World into the 4th World.  The horses, the children, the men and women were all recognizable figures.

 

Zuni pictograph of The Great Migration.

 

Back to the rafts with over 20 miles to travel the river today!  Alongside the edges of the water, we could see how molten lava had cooled into a sunburst pattern of fractures along lower temperature flow fronts created by convection.

 

At mile 210, we had entered the Hualapai Tribe Reservation on the West side of the river, while the Navajo Nation still had lands on the East.  Another significant threat to the natural resources lies on the Haulapai Reservation. Mining for uranium began in certain areas within the Grand Canyon National Park.  This was met with much opposition, and there was finally federal legislation that prohibited any future mining for uranium within the Park, but it excluded any existing mines.  Those mines are still in operation, but Park activists also still oppose this. Turkey Vultures were flying above in the clear blue sky, freely riding the thermals.  It is presumed that they nest in the Canyon caves, where California Condors and the Giant Teratorns nested in the late Pleistocene, 13,000 years ago.

 

Anyone up for some excitement and adrenaline flowing?  At mile 213, Jed and Dennis docked the rafts near Pumpkin Hot Springs.  We were asked who among us dared to jump off the “pumpkin falls” (this formation really looks like a bright orange pumpkin), which has a ledge atop it from which divers/"cannon ballers" can leap. 

 

Pumpkin Rock jumpers

 

Another option was to jump from the cliff high above the pumpkin formation.  Brave souls took off to line up on top of the pumpkin and Cathy, Jeff, Joan, Bonnie, Clara, Kelli and Jed took the leap on the count of three.  Then, the more daring members of our group, Dennis, Brian, and YES, Scott climbed to the higher cliff. 

 

Scott leaps off a high cliff.

 

Each took a turn at running toward and then dramatically plunging into the cold water below with quite a splash!  Some wore their waterproof paddling jackets and pants, while others chose to get the entire effect by only wearing their rafting shorts and shirts, but all wore their life jackets. 

 

Scott in mid air.

 

The waters were deep and rather calm here, so no one got swept downstream, but there were lots of shivers among them when they climbed back on board.

 

At mile 216, again everyone was asked whether he/she would like to swim the rapids once again.  This time, Kathy, Brian (Kathy’s nephew whom she treated to this trip), Joan (who swims across a lake and back daily back home in Maryland), and Cathy were the only ones who jumped into the Three Springs Rapid (2).  One thing for sure---everyone got wet on this river rafting adventure!  Fortunately, no one melted, but our feet and toes got rather shriveled at times. Kellie wrapped my waterlogged big toe with bumble bee tape that afternoon after we docked for the night.

 

Our campsite that night was at mile 220 on a sandy beach splotched with cacti, acacia trees, and creosote trees.  Since this was our last night to spend together, our guides had planned a spectacular dinner of sirloin strips grilled to perfection, a potato casserole with everything a loaded baked potato had in it (except the skin), and a lovely fresh salad.  We sat in our circle and devoured this great food prepared with loving hands for us.  Once Jed had finished with his grilling, he brought that burning coals and extra wood over for us to enjoy a campfire.  There was something being whispered about, and Scott and I were not in on the “secret”.


We found out though after dinner, when everyone was summoned to one of the serving tables. We gathered around the candlelit table, and SURPRISE---all of us were celebrating Scott and my 20th anniversary!!! Jed brought over one of his homemade Dutch oven cakes (this time, it was a Brownie Cake).  Everyone got a serving with a dollop of whipped cream atop, and it was heavenly rich and light.  Then, we were presented a bottle of champagne, which we passed around for all those who wanted a sip for a toast.  That bottle was empty in no time, so we headed back for more celebrating around the campfire with love songs, mostly led by Bernice and later others joined in.  What a way to celebrate our 20-year adventure that started in 1998 when we took another “leap of faith” and moved a vintage home in Bonham (previously, occupied by Uncle Hade and later by his niece, Miss Zora Arledge, the town baker) to Wildscape Acres (out in “the boonies”) and started homesteading among other things.

 

Twilight before our anniversary surprise.

 

Once back in our bedroom among the sand and bushes and comfortably settled into our sleeping bags,  Scott and I began to gaze at the moon and stars above with such gratitude for this experience together and a hint of sadness that it would be ending soon.

 

Faye Wedell and Scott Lipsett