Some rivers soothe and some rivers challenge.  The Buffalo River can do both, but with its towering limestone bluffs and gentle sweeping turns, mostly it inspires.  This clear, free-flowing stream inspires backpackers as well as water enthusiasts, but more importantly it inspired Congress to name the Buffalo River as America’s first national river in 1972, hopefully preserving forever the crystal waters of this great recreational river. 

From its beginning as a spring in the Ozark National Forest near the highest point in western Arkansas, the Buffalo tumbles out of the Boston Mountains on the scenic stream’s 150-mile journey to join up with the White River.  Outdoor enthusiasts have almost 95,000 acres of public land to enjoy along the way.  This is a big backcountry with many types of recreational opportunities and the river has three distinct sections. 

Serious backpackers and hikers know the upper Buffalo well, with its many caves and springs.  In the early spring when water levels are high, this is where seasoned paddlers knock off the winter’s rust.  Water levels are all-important and for quick reference, go to www.nps.gov/buff/.  This National Park Service Web site offers real-time water levels, recommended floating levels, rainfall reports, watershed maps and message of the day.  This section of the Buffalo can challenge the experienced and overpower the beginner in high-water conditions.  Veteran canoers like to put in around Ponca in the early spring and then move on down to Hasty and Carver as the water level goes down.  The upper Buffalo also has two camping areas designed for horses, Steel Creek and Erbie.  Outfitters like Wild Bill also offer trail rides along the middle section of the Buffalo.

In the early 1980s the Fish and Game Commission, along with the National Park Service, relocated 112 elk from Colorado and Nebraska to this area. Now approximately 500 elk live along the upper Buffalo, making this the only self-sustaining elk herd in the southeastern U.S.   Occasionally in May, a spindly-legged newborn can be seen following his mother along the Buffalo and in late September and early October, the shrill bugle of bull elk echoes off Limestone bluffs and fades into the many sounds along a wild and free river.

The middle section is always a great float, unless the water level is too high and the river is closed.  Most of the true rapids are behind you now and this part of the Buffalo is better known for good smallmouth bass fishing, swimming holes and impressive rock formations like Skull Rock, the Nars and Devil’s Tea Table. 

The Tyler Bend Visitors Center has historical displays and artifacts from the area, plus a large campground and hiking trails.

The lower section of the Buffalo starts near the old mining boomtown aptly named Rush.  Successful zinc mines just before the turn of the century had almost 5,000 workers living in Rush valley.  An old forge and a handful of historic buildings are all that remain along the river now.  Just below Rush is an S-turn in the Buffalo known as Clabber Creek shoals.  In high-water conditions, this spot can be interesting, but for the most part the lower Buffalo is famous for some of the highest bluffs and deepest holes anywhere on the river.  From Rush on down to the Buffalo’s confluence with the White River, floaters will find 27 miles of deep holes, towering cliffs and pristine sandbars just right for camping.   

John Muir saw the Buffalo River.  Henry Thoreau was here, as was Thomas Moran. And the best part is…it’s still the same incredible river.